Peptides
Also known as: copper peptides, matrixyl, palmitoyl tripeptide, acetyl hexapeptide
Peptides are short chains of amino acids that can signal skin cells to produce more collagen and elastin. The category is broad and evidence quality varies dramatically โ some peptides (like Matrixyl) have decent clinical data, while many others are supported by little more than in vitro studies and marketing enthusiasm.
What It Does
Deep Dive
What Are Peptides?
Peptides are chains of 2-50 amino acids. In skincare, they function as signaling molecules that 'tell' skin cells to perform specific functions โ typically collagen production, wound healing, or muscle relaxation. Different peptides have different signaling functions, which is why the category is so broad.
The Evidence Problem
Here's where it gets tricky: while the concept of peptide signaling is sound, the clinical evidence for most cosmetic peptides is limited. Many studies are in vitro (lab dish), use concentrations far higher than what's in consumer products, or are funded by the peptide manufacturers themselves. A few โ like palmitoyl pentapeptide-4 (Matrixyl) and GHK-Cu (copper peptides) โ have more robust data.
What Actually Works
Copper peptides (GHK-Cu) have the strongest evidence for wound healing and anti-aging. Matrixyl has demonstrated wrinkle-reducing effects in clinical trials, though the improvements were modest. Signal peptides and neurotransmitter-inhibiting peptides ('Botox alternatives') have much weaker evidence bases.
Practical Advice
Don't pay a premium for products marketed solely on peptide content. They work best as part of a comprehensive routine that includes proven actives like retinol, vitamin C, and niacinamide. If you do use peptide products, apply them before heavier creams and avoid combining with strong acids, which can break down the peptide chains.

















