Dexpanthenol
Also known as: d-panthenol, provitamin-b5, medical-panthenol
The pharma-grade panthenol Europe runs on — Bepanthen's hero molecule, used after laser, microneedling, retinoid burn, and tattooing because the wound-healing data is genuinely strong.
What It Does
Deep Dive
Dexpanthenol is the dextrorotatory (D-) isomer of panthenol — the same molecule, but the active form your body actually uses (the L-isomer is biologically inert). Once applied topically, dexpanthenol converts to pantothenic acid (vitamin B5), a precursor to coenzyme A, which is required for synthesis of ceramides and fatty acids in the stratum corneum. The wound-healing evidence is among the strongest of any cosmetic ingredient — multiple RCTs show measurable acceleration of barrier repair after laser, surgical wounds, and burns. In Europe, Bepanthen (5% dexpanthenol) is a default post-procedure recommendation by dermatologists. K-beauty has historically used regular panthenol (often the racemic mix); the medical-grade dexpanthenol push in 2025–2026 mirrors the broader 'medicosmetic' trend. If you've burnt your barrier with retinol, just had a peel, or have eczema-prone skin, this is the active to look for.
Sources
- [1]Dexpanthenol in dermatology review — View source