Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate (TH-Ascorbate)
Also known as: Ascorbyl Tetraisopalmitate, VC-IP
The prestige-tier stable vitamin C. Penetrates better than L-ascorbic acid, doesn't oxidise, plays well in oil-phase formulas.
What It Does
Deep Dive
TH-ascorbate is an oil-soluble ester of vitamin C that's chemically stable, doesn't brown on exposure to air, and penetrates the skin's lipid layers better than water-soluble derivatives. Clinical trials suggest it matches or exceeds L-AA for photoprotection and brightening at equivalent doses. The catch: it's expensive, which is why you'll find it in Sunday Riley Juno, Drunk Elephant C-Firma, and Biossance's rose oil rather than budget formulas.
Best For
Pairs Well With
Effective Concentration
0.5โ10%. Oil-soluble โ penetrates skin's lipid layers effectively.